Jewel Quest - A day I spent choosing the right gemstones for my next collection

That's Mr Sasi Kumar- my partner in crime as far as jewels are concerned. He's my go-to guy for gemstones for setting. For the last couple of years he's patiently sifted through thousands (yes, THOUSANDS) of  gemstones to satisfy my need for the right cut, the perfect size and the right colors in stones.  

From conception to jewelry

What is the journey from conception to jewelry? Sometimes it is the need to create something which I've never seen before.

I wanted to create a ring that would 'span' two fingers, but would not look like it was being worn on two fingers..

And what emerged was the floating knuckle-duster - I call it that because it does not look anchored to the fingers in the conventional sense.

No sketches - it was all in my mind. My artisan Raj and I share a special understanding after years of working on weird and wonderful ideas together. Now he does not bat an eyelid when I suggest a design which is completely crazy. He does, however, smile to himself and shake his head from time to time.. Here's the first prototype we created in copper (left) and the final product (right).

 

 

 

Ring Sizing

Here's a post on ring sizing.

 

Wrap a piece of loose string around your finger. Be sure to allow for the size of your knuckle.

With a pen, mark the point on the string where the end meets.

Measure this length against a ruler or scale.

Match your results with the table below to get your ring size.

It is said that a more accurate measurement is possible in the evening. 

Circum Inch Circum Mm US and Canada UK, Ireland, Australia, New Zealand India, China, Japan, South America Italy, Spain, Netherlands, Switzerland 1.89 48 4½  I  8 8 1.92 48.7 4¾  J  8.75 1.94 49.3 5 J½  9 9.25 1.97 50 5¼  K  10 1.99 50.6 5½  K½  10 10.5 2.02 51.2 5¾  L  11.25 2.04 51.9 6 L½  11 11.75 2.07 52.5 6¼  M  12 12.5 2.09 53.1 6½  M½  13 13.25 2.12 53.8 6¾  N  13.75 2.14 54.4 7 N½  14 14.5 2.17 55.1 7¼  O  15 2.19 55.7 7½  O½  15 15.75 2.22 56.3 7¾  P  16.25 2.24 57 8 P½  16 17 2.27 57.6 8¼  Q  17.5 2.29 58.3 8½  Q½  17 18.25 2.32 58.9 8¾  R  19 2.34 59.5 9 R½  18 19.5 2.37 60.2 9¼  S  20.25 2.39 60.8 9½  S½  19 20.75 2.42 61.4 9¾  T  21.5 2.44 62.1 10 T½  20 22

A trip to Old Delhi - A Visual Delight

I'd gone gemstone shopping for my next collection - but could not, as usual, overlook all the visual stimulation that Old Delhi (Chandni Chowk) has to offer. From the way the jeweler's tools are stacked neatly in shelves to the bright scarlet bundle of devotional scarves that sits bathed in the April mid-day sunlight, to the window display of bundles of delicate lace stacked together. And of course all the food! The colours, textures, aromas... and changing with each season too. Here's just some of what I experienced this week... 

I love these stores - they're well-stocked and they follow a neat organizational schemata all their own. When you ask for something, the store-owner knows exactly which shelf to go looking into. I've almost never been disappointed...  

One of the many colours of Hindu devotion - a bundle of devotional scarves used for pilgrimages and as offerings at temples. 

A motley collection of trimmings and embroidered yolks. I love the blue stool that stands outside the store - for a tired customer or when it gets too cramped inside for the store-owner. Imagine sitting on one of these, sipping on a hot 'cutting' chai and watching the crowds move by.

In all the squalor and dirt, a window display of delicate tatting and 

cutwork lace.

A loquat vendor - proudly sells his fresh produce. 

Packets of sweet corn and green choliyan...

Green chillies and limes...

Another loquat vendor - I love his mobile stall.

Naan Khatai: ghee, flour, semolina and sugar - put together and baked right in front of you on the hand-cart in a make-shift oven. Irresistible! 

   

Making an exception for a dear friend - wedding bands

I know, I know - I don't really do bespoke pieces. But Anit is different. Even a second in time spent with Anit is most likely to leave you feeling uplifted and happy. He is a valued friend. Here he is unwrapping his wedding rings. Love the expression of sheer happiness on his face. Makes it totally worth the effort.

I made Anit's band with a geometrical pattern etching and for his wife, her personal totem animal the tortoise was carved out of silver and added to the wedding band. It's not a very clear picture, but here's Anit trying to show us the lucky tortoise.

I'm glad I got the opportunity to create something special for such a wonderful occassion. 

Working with Raj on the next collection: Rings!

Raj is very particular about edges - he wants to get them just right. Here he is, filing away at one of the sample rings.

A simple doodle is all it takes for Raj to understand what I need in a design. So glad!!

Everything in its place. I love our little workshop! :) 

The 'madur' or chattai' or grass mat reminds me of home - as kids, we used to roll these out in the summers for a quick siesta, or would spread out our summer vacation homework and pretend to be working hard. And of course, I'm crazy about hammering blocks and butcher's blocks.. something so earthy and solid about them. Especially the way they wear down beautifully with use. I keep eying the one that my local butcher uses too...

An evening of product exploration with The House of Wandering Silk

Suman Mishra Jewelry was happy to co-host an informal evening with friends! Home-made hors d'oeuvres (by me, of course) and cocktails. The lovely location was by Katherine Neumann of the House of Wandering Silk.

That was quite a spread!! mmmm...

Meghna leaves her earrings on after she buys them.. Love her butterfly tattoo :) That's Neeti on the right - can't wait to see some of the ring from my next collection on her. She loves a good cocktail ring ;-)

Katherine's gas stove working hard on the sheesha coal. Looks pretty!

Heidi Fichtner of Seven Art Ltd looking at some jewels by Suman Mishra :)

 

Heidi and Yuko Morikawa, who'd just returned from an interesting trip to Ranthambore - checking out Katherine's Scarves.

 

I'm getting drawn to wooden beads...

My fav cat Toon

Can't get enough of Semal

Wet dog, Clean dog :)

Apricot (I think) Bark

Horse Carriage

My gorgeous New Delhi - Akbar Road

Indian Checkers

A couple of guards in our block were playing this. The pattern was painted by them on an old piece of plywood. They'd picked red and white pebbles from sand at construction sites to make up the two teams.  

Semal in bloom

Semal - getting ready to burst into flowers all over the city of Delhi

The second picture shows a glorious spreading Semal standing guard in front of the embassy of the Apostolic Nunciature of Holy See (Vatican City).

The tree starts going bare around now, to be left covered with delicious red/orange/peach blossoms which come to bloom by the time all the foliage is gone.  

Scaling up

What one month of perfect conditions can do to nasturtiums :)
Thank you Haku, for being the perfect standard measure :)

Form: Trimmings that the gardener would have thrown out!

Changing seasons

Life imitating textile - doesn't the pattern on this Ficus Elastica leaf remind you of (Bomkai) textile from Orissa? :)

Lone Ranger

No idea what this plant is called, but I've had it for many years. I was most pleasantly surprised to find a solitary flower gracing its slender vine on a bleak winter day.. :) And that was the first and last, at least for this season... Hope to see more of these beauties next year!